Tuesday, September 30, 2008


THE Eighties have been threatening a return for sometime, and Giles Deacon slammed them right into fashion’s forefront last night, giving them a futuristic push by way of modern fabrics and enormous Pac-Man metal helmets (thank you, Stephen Jones).
For the first time showing outside of his Rochelle School studio, Giles invited a much bigger crowd than usual – a welcome change considering the cult following his label has spawned since its launch in 2003.
As ever, there was humour – Pac-Man was embroidered in flashes of silver on full tunic dresses and huge fabric hoods on dresses that swamped the model’s head, plus a double-G on the back pocket of a pair of jeans (the result of a collaboration with Lee Cooper which is celebrating 100 years of “fine English denim”), in a nod to another fine fashion house – perhaps one day Giles, formerly at Bottega Veneta and Gucci, will really be that famous. We hope so.
While the shapes were often Giles at his romantic best – one fairytale dress with a huge puffed out skirt (which meant the model had to be dragged off the catwalk sideways), and other panelled numbers that you just knew would give you curves where you never knew you could have them – the fabrics were another, far more hardcore, sporty story: silver lame, PVC, shiny quilted silk, thick jersey, even string vest mesh for tops and one black blazer.
At times it felt a little like sci-fi sadomasochism – the higher than high, strapped-up-to-the-ankle metallic Louboutins, hobble-tight PVC pencil skirts and transparent PVC overlayers suggesting that this team had really been having fun this season, refusing to go with the faded floral chiffon flow of many other collections this week.
Mostly drawn-in to the body, the silhouette was clean-cut and modern, with the colour palette of black and white, and acid bright pink, peach, gold, red, turquoise, orange grey and yellow sometimes mixed in prints that were part atlas, part camouflage. Even if you’re too young to have enjoyed Pac-Mac in its hey day, you can’t help but love this.

True enough, there were prints (giant allover camouflages and smudged polka dots), but Deacon kept them mostly to trimmings, or removed them altogether in a series of solid-color double-knit jersey dresses. And he endeared himself to his potential customers by using a broadened age group of models, including Emma Balfour, Elise Crombez, Liberty Ross, and Christina Kruse. He even popped in western shirts and a single pair of jeans, coming out soon as a collaboration with Lee Cooper.
Of course, this being Deacon, you wouldn't expect them to be delivered straight up and down without any tweaks of craftsmanship—or without skewering some insider pop culture references. Deacon declared those afterward. "I was just looking at the graphic designers of the late eighties and early nineties who I grew up admiring: Ben Kelly, Peter Saville, Mark Farrow. Pet Shop Boys videos, The Hacienda club. What they did was ridiculously simple but incredibly graphic." Pac-Man (the precursor of every modern computer game) dates from the same sort of vintage.
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear


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